Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
